Tereza Kuldova

Researcher - History
Image of Tereza Kuldova
Norwegian version of this page
Phone +47-22859375
Username
Visiting address Niels Henrik Abels vei 36 Niels Treschows hus 0851 OSLO
Postal address Postboks 1008 Blindern 0315 OSLO

Academic Interests

Throughout my research, grounded in long-term fieldworks (2008, 2010-11) in urban North India (New Delhi and Lucknow), several research interests have emerged as crucial for my work.

  • The economic and social transformation of urban India since the implementation of neo-liberal reforms during the 90s, which I have approached through a study of Indian fashion industry and its relation to crafts.
  • The perpetuation of notions of royalty, hierarchy and (neo)-imperialism under the aforementioned changed circumstances, especially in terms of royal aesthetics and consumption of heritage luxury.
  • The communal relationships between Hindus and Muslims in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh and the ways in which they are negotiated and pacified through craft production that transgresses divisions of religion, class, caste and locality.

During my fieldtrips I have also collected a number of artifacts for the ethnographic collection of the museum, from embroidered pieces to vintage Bollywood posters. I am currently also preparing an exhibition on Indian luxury fashion at the Museum of Cultural History, which will open in autumn 2013. In relation to that, I am also working on an accompanying ethnographic movie, called Dreams of Luxury, Realities of Life.

For more information about my interests, feel free to visit my website.

Background

Academic education:

  • 2009 - 2013: PhD Fellow in Social Anthropology, Department of Ethnography,  Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo
  • 2007 - 2009:  MA-degree in Social Anthropology, Department of Social Anthropology, University of Oslo with the thesis: Networks that Make a Difference: The Production of Social Cohesion in Lucknow, North India

Fieldwork and research background:

  • 2011 (January – March): Visiting research scholar at SOAS (School of Oriental and African Studies), London
  • 2010 – 2011: Fieldwork in Lucknow and New Delhi, North India
  • 2008 (January – August): Fieldwork in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, North India

Conferences and presentations

2012

  • The Indian Phantasm Conference, Museum of Cultural History, Oslo (10th-11th December), conference organizer, paper to be presented: Indian Luxury fashion and Neo-Imperial Aesthetics.
  • Non-Western Fashion Conference, Rabat, Morocco (20th-21st October), paper presented: Indian Haute Couture: The Aesthetic Economy of Neo-Imperial Atmospheres.
  • Artification Conference, Helsinki, Aalto University (15th-17th August), paper presented: Artification in Indian High Fashion: Elevating Value, Creating Distance and Redefining Indian Art.
  • EASA 2012, Paris, Nanterre (10th - 13th July 2012), paper presented: Laughing at Luxury and Living out Alternative Aesthetics: The Poor Craftswoman's Take on Fashion.
  • CIM Project Final Conference, Utrecht, The Netherlands (31st May - 1st June 2012), paper presented: Hijacking Creativity, Denying Imagination: Unraveling the Mystery of Value Creation in Indian Fashion.
  • ASA 2012 Conference, JNU Delhi, India (3rd-6th April 2012), chair and panel organizer, P01 - Exploring the aesthetics and meanings of contemporary Indian fashion: from craft to the catwalk, paper presented: Embroidered Seduction, Embroidered Modesty: On Luxury Garments and Femininity in Contemporary India.

2011

  • Annual Conference at the Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo (19th-20th September 2011). Paper: Claiming and Denying Creativity: The Battlefield that is the Creation of Indian Embroidered Garment.

2010

  • Museum of Cultural History, seminar (4th February 2010), paper: A Commodity as a Window into Complexity: The Chikan Embroidery of India and the Intertwined Social Life of Things and People
  • Finnish Anthropology Conference 2010: Ideas of Value, Helsinki (12th May 2010), chair of session Material Culture and Material Body, paper Managing Clothes, Expressing Values: The Indian Middle Class and the Game of Aligning Values with Clothes, later on published in edited version in Journal of Finnish Anthropological Society.
  • CEU Graduate Conference, Budapest (12th June 2010), paper: Constructing the Field Across Time and Space: Dealing with Multiple Contexts and Multiple Temporalities.

Collaboration

HERA-project Creativity and Innovation in a World of Movement with individual project Designing Elites: Fashion and Value in Urban North India

Tags: India, material culture, social anthropology, hierarchy, fashion, craft, social change, commodification, value, aesthetic economy

Publications

  • Kuldova, Tereza (2018). Designing for 'Zippies' and the Madness of Bhootsavaar: On Commercially Inflected Artistic Nationalism and Branded 'Subcultures', In Lipi Begum; Rohit K. Dasgupta & Reina Lewis (ed.),  Styling South Asian Youth Cultures: Fashion, Media & Society.  I.B. Tauris.  ISBN 9781784539177.  chapter 6.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2018). Fetishism and the Problem of Disavowal. Qualitative Market Research.  ISSN 1352-2752.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2018). The 'ethical sell' in the Indian luxury fashion business, In Veronique Pouillard & Regina Lee Blaszczyk (ed.),  European fashion: The creation of a global industry.  Manchester University Press.  ISBN 978-1-5261-2210-0.  11.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Forcing ‘Good’ and the Legitimization of Informal Power: Philanthrocapitalism and Artistic Nationalism among the Indian Business Elites. Internationales Asienforum.  ISSN 0020-9449.  48(1-2), s 55- 75
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Guarded Luxotopias and Expulsions in New Delhi: Aesthetics and Ideology of Outer and Inner Spaces of an Urban Utopia, In Tereza Kuldova & Mathew Akkanad Varghese (ed.),  Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia.  Palgrave Macmillan.  ISBN 978-3-319-47622-3.  Chapter 3.  s 37 - 52
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). On fashion and illusions: Designing interpassive Indianness for India’s rich, In Marco Pedroni & Emanuela Mora (ed.),  Fashion Tales: Feeding the Imaginary.  Peter Lang Publishing Group.  ISBN 9783034327893.  12.  s 273 - 290
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). The Sublime Splendor of Intimidation: Outlaw Biker Aesthetics of Power. Visual Anthropology.  ISSN 0894-9468.  30(5), s 379- 402 . doi: 10.1080/08949468.2017.1371545 Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Traversing Trade Fairs and Fashion Weeks: On Dependence and Disavowal in the Indian Fashion Industry, In Hege Høyer Leivestad & Hege Nyqvist (ed.),  Ethnographies of Conferences and Trade Fairs: Shaping Industries, Creating Professionals.  Palgrave Macmillan.  ISBN 978-3-319-53096-3.  8.  s 147 - 169
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). When Elites and Outlaws Do Philanthropy: On the Limits of Private Vices for Public Benefit. Trends in Organized Crime.  ISSN 1084-4791. . doi: 10.1007/s12117-017-9323-6 Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Varghese, Mathew Akkanad (2017). Introduction: Urban Utopias - Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal India and Sri Lanka, In Tereza Kuldova & Mathew Akkanad Varghese (ed.),  Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia.  Palgrave Macmillan.  ISBN 978-3-319-47622-3.  Chapter 1.
  • Pouillard, Veronique & Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Interrogating Intellectual Property Rights in Post-war Fashion and Design. Journal of Design History.  ISSN 0952-4649. . doi: /10.1093/jdh/epx014
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Directing passions in New Delhi's world of fashion: on the power of ritual and illusions without owners. Thesis Eleven.  ISSN 0725-5136.  133(1), s 96- 113 . doi: 10.1177/0725513616633250 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Fatalist luxuries: Of inequality, wasting, and the antiwork ethic in India. Cultural Politics.  ISSN 1743-2197.  12(1), s 110- 129 . doi: 10.1215/17432197-3436415 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Heads against Hands and Hierarchies of Creativity, In  Creativity in Transition: Politics and Aesthetics of Cultural Production Across the Globe.  Berghahn Books.  ISBN 978-1-78533-181-7.  Chapter 2.  s 61 - 85
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Hells Angels™ Motorcycle Corporation in Fashion Business: Interrogating the Fetishism of the Trademark Law. Journal of Design History.  ISSN 0952-4649.  s 1- 19 . doi: 10.1093/jdh/epw041 Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Indian 'Haute Couture': Ornamentalism and the Aesthetic Economy of Neo-Imperial Atmospheres. Culturologia: The Journal of Culture.  ISSN 1805-2886.  2(2), s 1- 9 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Utopi, I: Knut Stene-Johansen; Christian Refsum & Johan Henrik Schimanski (red.),  Å leve sammen. Roland Barthes, individet og fellesskapet.  Spartacus.  ISBN 978-82-304-01781.  U.  s 384 - 402
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). An Indian Cocktail of Value/s and Desire: On the ‘Artification’ of Whisky and Fashion, In Øivind Fuglerud & Leon Wainwright (ed.),  OBJECTS AND IMAGINATION Perspectives on Materialization and Meaning.  Berghahn Books.  ISBN 978-1-78238-568-4.  11.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Bugge, Remy (2015). Smykkedesign i India og Norge: maksimalisme, minimalisme og illusjoner om den andre, I: Marianne Vedeler & Ingunn Marit Røstad (red.),  Smykker. Personlig pynt i kulturhistorisk lys.  Museumsforlaget AS.  ISBN 9788283050226.  kapittel 4.  s 91 - 112 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Designing Hypermuscular Neo-Aristocracy: Of Kings, Gangsters and Muscles in Indian Cinema, Fashion and Politics. Film Fashion and Consumption.  ISSN 2044-2823.  3(2), s 149- 156 . doi: 10.1386/ffc.3.2.149_1
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Designing an Illusion of India's Future Superpowerdom. Unfamiliar: An Anthropological Journal.  ISSN 2050-778X.  4(1), s 15- 22 . doi: 10.2218/unfamiliar.v4i1.1097 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Fashion Exhibition as a Critique of Museum Exhibitions: The Case of 'Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism'. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty.  ISSN 2040-4417.  5(2), s 313- 336
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). Laughing at Luxury, Mocking Fashion Designers, In Tereza Kuldova (ed.),  Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism.  Akademika forlag.  ISBN 978-82-321-0319-5.  10..  s 167 - 194
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). 'The Maharaja Style: Royal Chic and Double Vision, In Tereza Kuldova (ed.),  Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism.  Akademika forlag.  ISBN 978-82-321-0319-5.  4..  s 51 - 72
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Fashionable Erotic Masquerades: Of brides, gods and vamps in India. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty.  ISSN 2040-4417.  3(1&2), s 69- 86
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Kalland, Arne (2011). Hvalfart fra Øygarden til Praha: Et hvalskjeletts biografi. Havstrilen.  ISSN 1502-9107.  11, s 16- 27
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). Acting Out Class: On mimicking, mocking, Bollywood stars and the urban Indian male. Suomen Antropologi.  ISSN 0355-3930.  35(3)

View all works in Cristin

  • Kuldova, Tereza & Varghese, Mathew Akkanad (ed.) (2017). Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia. Palgrave Macmillan.  ISBN 978-3-319-47622-3.  240 s.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique. Bloomsbury Academic.  ISBN 9781474220941.  224 s.
  • Kuldova, Tereza; Meyer, Birgit & Svasek, Maruska (2016). Creativity in Transition: Politics and Aesthetics of Cultural Production Across the Globe. Berghahn Books.  ISBN 978-1-78533-181-7.  340 s. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (ed.) (2013). Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism. Akademika forlag.  ISBN 978-82-321-0319-5.  235 s.

View all works in Cristin

  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Absolute Outlaw (Art Photography Exhibition).
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Artists' Waste, Wasted Artists. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Book Review: The Rise of the Right by Simon Winlow, Steve Hall and James Treadwell. Journal of Extreme Anthropology.  ISSN 2535-3241. . doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.5617/jea.4484
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Doing Good on the Fringe: On the Uses of Charity Among Outlaw Bikers.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Excerpts from 'Dark Matter: The History of Shit' by Florian Werner, transl. Tereza Kuldova.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Feminine Advantage: Doing Ethnography of Outlaws.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Having One's Cake and Eating It Too: Hells Angels Between Consumer Culture and the Sacred. Rokko's Adventures.  ISSN 1994-344X.  (19), s 52- 57
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Loss of Sovereignty and Social Abjection: On Masculinity and Melancholic Objects of Political Desire.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). The Sublime Power of Intimidation: Riding Behind Outlaw Bikers. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). The Sublime Splendor of Intimidation: Outlaw Biker Aesthetics of Power (Lecture).
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Weakness, Strength and the Business of Protection: How (the discourse of) the Weakening State Contributes to the Growth of Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs across Europe. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). What Meets the Eye: Lessons in Visual Anthropology (Invited Guest Series of Six Lectures: 1. Visual Anthropology: From Objects to Methods 2. Museums and Visual Anthropology 3. Visual Anthropology of Fashion and Design 4. Photography, Film and Countercultures 5. Advertising, Branding and the Anthropologist in the Neoliberal 6. Visual Methods in the Field: From Documentation to Representation).
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). When Elites and Outlaws Do Philanthropy: On the Limits of Private Vices for Public Benefit.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Petrilli, Enrico (2017, 23. oktober). Antropologia Estrema: Lusso, bikers e merda: conversazione con Tereza Kuldova dell’Extreme Anthropology Research Network. [Internett].  NERO.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Røsæg, Håvard (2017, 15. februar). Helvetes filantroper.  Universitas.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Doing Anthropology of Outlaw Bikers: Representing Ambiguous and Controversial Groups.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Philanthrocapitalism Across Legal and Illegal Markets: From Indian Business Elites to the Hells Angels Motorcycle Corporation. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Protecting Trademarks and Culture - Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs in between Counterculture and Popular Culture.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Protecting Trademarks and Culture: Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs in Between Subculture and Popular Culture.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). The Brotherhoods' Sacred Jackets: Decoding the Fashions of Transnational Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Transnational Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs and the Ideas of the West.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Pileberg, Silje (2016, 22. august). MC-klubber verner om verdifulle symboler. [Internett].  https://www.hf.uio.no/iakh/forskning/aktuelt/aktuelle-saker/.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Zechmeister, Petra (2016, 10. september). The Social Anthropologist: Interview with Tereza Kuldova. [Internett].  The C/O Vienna Magazine.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Charitable Non-Love of ‘Ethical’ Fashion: Philanthrocapitalism and the Reproduction of Poverty in the Indian Fashion Industry.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Forcing the ‘Good’ rather than ‘Force of Good’: Interrogating the Convergence between Indian Fashion, Artistic Nationalism and Transnational Philanthrocapitalism.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Fragments of/for a Domestic Utopia: Ethnographic Notes on How Indian Royal Descendants Live Together with Servants.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Outlaws in fashion business: Hells Angels vs. Alexander McQueen and other copyright battles over Gang Insignia.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). The Cult of Luxury and its Vulgarities: On the Irresistible Power of the Low.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Theorizing Opulent Theatrical Fashion-cum-Art Shows in India On Artistic Nationalism, Neo-feudal Ornamentalism, and Philanthrocapitalism.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Thinking through Luxury (in Anthropology): On the Cultural Politics of Luxury, Inequality and Anti-Work Ethic in India.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Affective and aesthetic atmospheres as ideological play-spheres: the making of the heroic Indian entrepreneur-philanthropists in design studios.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Asiatiske Luksusmarkeder: Fornuft og lidenskap.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Designing Elite Indian Masculinities: Fashion, Whisky and Cosmopolitan Neo-Royalty.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Fashion as Ambient Governance: Guerilla Marketing and Experience Design in New Delhi.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Postsocialist Imperialism and its Others. Cultural Studies.  ISSN 0950-2386.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Stairway to Heaven (part of the exhibition 'For the Love of Freedom').
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). Designing Elites: Fashion and Prestige in Urban North India. Series of Dissertations submitted to the Faculty of Social Sciences, University of Oslo. 421.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). Designing Interpassive Indianness: Intimate Encounters with Nation at a Distance.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). Fashion India Utstilling ved Kulturhistorisk Museum.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Artification and Montage: Indian Fashion, Art and Whisky.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Embroidered Seduction, Embroidered Modesty: On Luxury Garments and Femininity in Contemporary India.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Hijacking Creativity, Denying Imagination: Unraveling the Mystery of Value Extraction in Indian Fashion.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Laughing at Luxury and Mocking Designers: Poor Craftswoman's Take on High Fashion.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2011). 'Claiming and Denying Creativity: The Battlefield that is the Creation of Indian Embroidered Garment’.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). A COMMODITY AS A WINDOW INTO COMPLEXITY: THE CHIKAN EMBROIDERY OF INDIA AND THE INTERTWINED SOCIAL LIFE OF THINGS AND PEOPLE.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). CONSTRUCTING THE ‘FIELD’ ACROSS TIME AND SPACE: DEALING WITH MULTIPLE CONTEXTS AND MULTIPLE TEMPORALITIES.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). MANAGING CLOTHES, EXPRESSING VALUES: THE INDIAN MIDDLE-CLASS AND THE GAME OF ALIGNING VALUES WITH CLOTHES.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). Om nordmenn, et universitet og et øltelt. Revue Prostor.  ISSN 0862-7045.  87/88, s 213- 218
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). Things, Mimesis, Mirror Neurons, Bollywood Stars and the Brand-Spanking New Indian Middle Class. Antropress.  (3), s 14- 16
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2009). Networks that Make a Difference: The Production of Social Cohesion in Lucknow, North India.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2009). Ties that Make a Difference: Investigating Peace. Betwixt & Between.  ISSN 1504-2618.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Jakoubek, Marek (2007). Antropologie multikulturních společností: Rozumět identitě.

View all works in Cristin

Published Sep. 11, 2012 2:23 PM - Last modified Jan. 9, 2014 3:18 PM

Projects

No ongoing projects